Published August 2011
Over the past few years I've often found myself acting as unofficial trip advisor to friends and friends-of-friends visiting Kota Kinabalu for the first time. I've finally realised that I have a set number of practices as to places we visit together (if the person I'm with enjoys a drink, my life becomes easier tenfold) and bits of advice on where to go and what to do.
Bearing in mind that I am not exactly a Lonely Planet guide book, nor am I here to arrange sightseeing tours (you're capable, do it yourself) I decided to examine the most common little 'suggestions' I've often given to visitors in the past. These are only some of the main points I find myself repeating regularly. There are quite a few more but in an effort to keep today's column comfortably readable, I'll stick to three points:
ISLAND STUFF
When visiting any of the five islands (Manukan, Sapi, Sulug, Mamutik and Gaya) in Tunku Abdul Rahman Park always be mindful of times and days. For example, if you head over to to an island of your choice at around 9:30am on a normal working day, the chances are high that you will be able to grab a prime spot for sun-worshipping or a good table under the shade. You'll be in island bliss while the rest of the tourists are still working their way through the breakfast buffet lines at their respective hotels.
Granted there is no guarantee that these spots will be entirely free of sand flies, red ants or assorted other pests (I'm thinking of the two-legged variety) but at least you'll be able to grab a few hours of lazy fun before the hordes make their way over from the mainland. Also, the further you get from the jetty, the quieter it may be. But if you're lugging around an eskie or assorted lilos, it can work out to be quite the hike back to catch your boat.
Be aware that Sapi island is home to macaque monkeys; they've been known to make off with sunbathers' belongings so be vigilant – they seem to be attracted to shiny things and plastic bags. Keep clear of the resident monitor lizards who will head over to say hello especially if they smell food. Please resist the urge to get too close, or to feed them. This goes for the monkeys too.
While we're on the topic of islands, it is best to return to the mainland between 3pm to 4pm. No matter how sunny of a day it is, the winds tend to change and the boat ride back any later can become quite choppy.
FOOD STUFF
Seafood is another highlight for visitors to KK. At the risk of being blunt, don't assume that just because a shop or a restaurant appears 'simple' or basic that their prices will hover around rock bottom. This goes double for bars and pubs. When in doubt, ask. Unsure of standards? For the most part the general rule of thumb is very simply this: If the place is packed, the food is usually good. Do note that this may not necessarily apply to a bar that happens to serve food. But I'm sure you can figure that out for yourself.
If you're waiting for a table take the time to have a discreet look at what diners are tucking in to. If unsure, there is absolutely no harm in asking politely. I still do that on occasion, especially when trying out a restaurant or coffee shop for the first time. I've actually made a few friends that way, and was introduced to the best laksa I've ever had.
TRAFFIC STUFF
Yes. Traffic. Never, ever make the mistake of underestimating KK's traffic. You will end up suffering dearly. I have lost track of the number of times visitors from cities such as Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta and Bangkok have looked down their noses at me when I've told them to be aware of peak hour traffic in KK. “You don't know what a traffic jam is until you've been in one of ours,” is the generic, often sarcastically snorted reply.
True, but KK is unique in the sense that a trip that could take two minutes driving time may stretch up an hour sometimes. I am not making this up because I've been stuck in a crawl like this before. The days leading up to any one of our many religious celebrations and public holidays are usually manic as everyone tries to get their shopping out of the way. But there has been the odd day when traffic magically appears with no warning. I can't stress this enough, be prepared for anything. The roads in our city centre are not quite equipped to deal with the amount of vehicles heading (usually) into town while the number of car owners are increasing on a daily basis. Also, there is no excuse for inconsiderate drivers, of which we are stuffed to the brim with, so I won't even touch on this subject. I suspect, however, they don't help with the problems either.
If you've got a flight to catch or an appointment to keep, please find out more about the traffic situation in your area before you pick a time to head off.
These are the few that I can think of at the moment. As is with travel anywhere else, be aware of your surroundings, be polite, be respectful and keep an open mind. Sabah has its special moments and if you're too busy being judgemental or comparing it to other cities, you might just blink and miss something special.
